Category Archives — "Talk Story"
John Clark, the author of Hawaiian Surfing, was the guest speaker last night at the TALK STORY. It ones one of the most educational and informative talks so far. I really enjoyed the subject about how Ancient Hawaiians believe every family had a animal spirit watching over them, and if they (bird, turtle, shark), showed up while you were surfing, that meant they where there protecting you! Hope mines a turtle…Lots of fun! Cant wait for next week.
~Forever21, Floral, Dress ~Frenchi, Cardigan ~Thrifted Wedges
BRUCE BROWNS TALK STORY NIGHTS
Bruce Brown had us laughing, listening, and applauding at the Talk Story Wednesday Night! The Famous Bruce Brown, director of the classic surf movie The Endless Summer, was the guest speaker last night at the Talk Story held in Surfer the Bar, at the Turtle Bay Resort Wednesday evening. The Talk Story turned into ” The Endless Night”, full of confessions, a jump in interview with the famous Dick Brewer, and backstage knowledge about the makings of the film. Bruce almost had us falling out our seats in laughter, telling story after story about the most unimaginable experiences!
Jodi Wilmott, the host of all the Talk Stories, had to step back at one point while Bruce and his son Dana, went into details about their encounter with lions in South Africa. Bruce Brown is character, that’s for sure and you can tell Dana has grown up with Bruce’s best qualities in himself! Over all, the night couldn’t have gone any better and the place was packed, (Most people had to stand because there weren’t enough seats!) The night ended with a signing and photos that lasted a good hour because there were so many people in line. If you are planning on going to the next Talk Story, come early so you can get a great seat!
Kai Lenny, one of the most talented waterman, at only 19 has conquered just about every sports you can think of that has to do with the ocean. Wednesday evening at Surfer the bar, inside the Turtle Bay Resort, Kai Lenny was the guest speaker at that that nights Talk Story. Jodi Wilmott, the host of all the Talk Stories got to do a one on one Live interview with the talented Kai. Kai Lenny goes into detail explaining as best he can, what it feels like riding a 50 foot wave at Jaws, the famous surf stop.
Kai explains, ” The best way I can describe a wave at Jaws for example, your on top of the tow rope and everything just starts going in slow-mo. I kid you not, Its like the weirdest thing ever! Your dropping into this huge wave and there are helicopters going around you and your like, Oh my goodness whats going on? Then you just get focused. For me, I will hit a bottom turn and everything will just go like a thousand frames per second, and for what? It last for a two second period and it feels like ten minutes. I can hear everything. I can literally hear my hair hitting my ear. I feel the water drops going down my leg and its trickling off the tail of my board and I can going into such detail and the feelings. I can feel the water drops of the waves, falling next to me and its just the trippiest feeling because your in such a moment ,were you are so focused, nothing else really exists at that point. “
10:14 mins into the YouTube video below