kai lenny surf the bar talk story

      Kai Lenny, one of the most talented waterman, at only 19 has conquered just about every sports you can think of that has to do with the ocean. Wednesday evening at Surfer the bar, inside the Turtle Bay Resort, Kai Lenny was the guest speaker at that that nights Talk Story. Jodi Wilmott, the host of all the Talk Stories got to do a one on one Live interview with the talented Kai. Kai Lenny goes into detail explaining as best he can, what it feels like riding a 50 foot wave at Jaws, the famous surf stop.

Kai explains,  ” The best way I can describe a wave at Jaws for example, your on top of the tow rope and everything just starts going in slow-mo. I kid you not, Its like the weirdest thing ever! Your dropping into this huge wave and there are helicopters going around you and your like, Oh my goodness whats going on? Then you just get focused. For me, I will hit a bottom turn and everything will just go like a thousand frames per second, and for what? It last for a two second period and it feels like ten minutes. I can hear everything. I can literally hear my hair hitting my ear. I feel the water drops going down my leg and its trickling off the tail of my board and I can going into such detail and the feelings. I can feel the water drops of the waves, falling next to me and its just the trippiest feeling because your in such a moment ,were you are so focused, nothing else really exists at that point. “ 

10:14 mins into the YouTube video below 


kai lenny surf the bar talk story

kai lenny

kai lenny surf the bar talk story

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